Last updated: Jan 2026
Read time: 4 minutes
When you're buying shoes for a baby or toddler, the material on the outside matters — but the material on the inside matters more. Most parents focus on size, fit, and flexibility. Few think about what the leather itself was processed with. They should.
What Is Chrome Tanning?
Leather tanning is the process that transforms raw animal hide into durable, supple leather. The dominant method worldwide — used in approximately 80–90% of all leather production — is chrome tanning, which uses chromium(III) salts to preserve and soften the hide.
Chrome tanning is fast (24–48 hours vs. weeks for traditional methods), produces a consistent product, and is cost-effective. It's also the reason most shoes you'll find on shelves are made from chrome-tanned leather.
The problem is what can remain in the finished leather.
The Chromium Problem
Chromium III (Cr III) used in tanning is generally considered low-risk. However, through oxidation — which can be accelerated by UV light, heat, and sweat — Cr III can convert to Chromium VI, also known as hexavalent chromium or Cr VI.
Cr VI is a well-documented skin sensitiser and allergen. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) classifies it as a substance of very high concern. The EU restricts Cr VI in leather articles to a maximum of 3 mg/kg (3 ppm) under regulation EC 1907/2006 (REACH).
For adults with occasional shoe wear, this risk is manageable. For babies and toddlers, the risk is higher because
a. Babies' skin is thinner and more permeable than adult skin, absorbing chemicals more readily
b. Babies frequently mouth their shoes, creating an ingestion pathway
c. Toddlers wear shoes for extended periods with sweaty feet — sweat accelerates Cr III to Cr VI conversion
d. Children with eczema or sensitive skin are at significantly elevated risk of contact dermatitis from Cr VI exposure
What Is Chrome-Free Leather?
Chrome-free leather (also called chrome-free tanned or vegetable-tanned leather) is produced without any chromium salts. Instead, alternative tanning agents are used — most commonly:
Vegetable tannins — derived from plant bark (oak, chestnut, mimosa). Traditional method, produces a firmer leather that softens with wear
Synthetic tannins (syntans) — engineered organic compounds with no heavy metals
The result is leather that contains zero chromium — no Cr III, and therefore no available element for Cr VI formation.
Chrome-free leather is not a compromise product. Many premium leather goods brands use it specifically because it produces a cleaner, more natural-feeling leather that ages well and carries no heavy metal risk.
Why It Matters More for Children Than Adults
| Factor | Adults | Babies/Toddlers |
| Skin permeability | Lower | Higher — thinner barrier |
| Shoe contact time | Variable | Often 4–8+ hours daily |
| Mouthing behaviour | Rare | Very common |
| Sweat production (foot) | Variable | High relative to foot size |
| Skin sensitivity | Generally lower | Often higher; eczema more common |
The combination of higher skin permeability, longer contact time, and mouthing behaviour makes chromium exposure from footwear a meaningfully different risk category for young children than for adults.
What to Look for on Labels
Not all brands make their tanning process clear. When evaluating children's leather shoes:
Look for:
"Chrome-free leather" or "chrome-free tanned"
"Vegetable-tanned leather"
Be cautious of:
"Brands that are not open to disclose their source of leather"
"Genuine leather" with no further specification (likely chrome-tanned)
"Soft leather" with no tanning method disclosed
How Schwette Approaches This
Schwette uses chrome-free leather across its footwear range. The choice was deliberate: the brand's focus on the 10-month to 4-year age group — the highest-risk window for chemical skin exposure — made chrome-free leather a non-negotiable material standard rather than a marketing feature.
The leather uppers in the Joyeux and Flanay ranges are sourced from suppliers who do not use chromium in the tanning process, eliminating the conversion pathway to Cr VI entirely.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is chrome-free leather as durable as chrome-tanned leather?
Yes. Chrome-free leather — particularly vegetable-tanned leather — is known for durability and develops a natural patina over time. It may feel slightly stiffer initially and softens with wear, which is why it's well-suited to children's shoes that need to last through active use.
How can I tell if a shoe uses chrome-free leather?
Look for explicit labelling: "chrome-free," "vegetable-tanned,". If the brand doesn't disclose its tanning method, assume it's chrome-tanned — it accounts for the large majority of leather production globally.
Are all leather children's shoes a health risk?
Not necessarily. EU regulations cap Cr VI in leather articles at 3 ppm, and most reputable brands comply. However, chrome-free leather eliminates the risk entirely rather than managing it within a permitted threshold — a meaningful distinction for a child wearing shoes daily.
Is chrome-free leather more expensive?
Generally yes — alternative tanning methods take longer and cost more than chrome tanning. This is reflected in the price of shoes that use it. For children's footwear worn against sensitive skin for extended daily periods, the material cost is worth the investment.
Summary
Most leather is processed using chromium salts, which can convert to hexavalent chromium (Cr VI) — a known skin sensitiser — through contact with sweat and heat. For babies and toddlers, who have more permeable skin, wear shoes for long periods, and frequently mouth footwear, chrome-free leather eliminates this exposure pathway entirely. When buying children's leather shoes, look for brands that explicitly use "chrome-free" leather.